Sew Expensive... Millinery For Every Woman Sewing Book

Hello my dear readers! For you today I have another Sew Expensive moment brought to you by the internet and people with too much money!

For today's installment, I have a stunning book that recently sold for an equally stunning price!

This beautiful, and painfully rare book sold on Ebay recently for a sum that made me quite literally squeal. I scared the hell out of the dog.

This original Millinery for Every Woman by Georgina Kerr Kaye sold for an incredible $587.90 (that's 427 € or 354 £!).

Why would this amazing little tome go for so much, you might ask? Because it's full of hat patterns and very rare millinery knowledge that is slowly dying out. Very few people make their own hats any more compared to the average woman of the 18th century who often knew how to make just about anything. That sort of knowledge is rather scarce these days so a book like this would find a very welcome home among those who wish to preserve that kind of knowledge.

If you're interested in making your own hats, there isn't a lot of info readily available and books like these are not easy to find!
But don't fret, my dears, there is an alternative to spending half your rent on antique millinery books! There are several re-prints of this book currently available on Amazon for as little as $25.

In other news, Happy New Year! Another year has gone by and I find that as a whole, I'm just as content with life as I have been for the last 7 or 8 years.  So no resolutions for me, just happy business as usual.
How about you? Any grand resolutions you hope to keep?

CRAFTY CHRISTMAS

I can't fit into any pants that aren't elasticized at the waist so I suppose we can call the holiday a success. Why so many cookies, Mom? WHY?!

Along with gorging on baked goods, cheese, crackers, turkey, candy, and ALL manner of alcoholic libations, I may have had a brief shopping relapse.  I felt a little like a 2 year sober alcoholic might feel after falling off the wagon: a small zing of transient bliss followed by shame, self-reproach and guilt.

I have largely avoided buying new clothes since I started sewing seriously. I may have picked up a few items (*cough* J. Crew sale *cough*) over the last year or two, but generally whenever I enter a store I have the sewist mantra running in my head: "I could make this in an afternoon and do a much better job of it".

The problem with that mantra is that I simply don't have time to make all the clothes I want or need. The wish list is staggering, the stash is groaning, and unfortunately, the basic standbys tend to get pushed aside so I can make pretty dresses. As a result, I don't really make things like pajama pants, t-shirts and leggings, the things I actually wear most of the time around the house. I'm in a new relationship and my sweetie simply can't see me lazing around the house in the stretched out and holey rags that would have passed for pajamas in my single days. As a result, I may have dropped a few hundo on lounge pants, tees and cozy sweaters during the Boxing Day Sales.

The amount of guilt I've felt as a result is a little irrational, but it felt weird to be lugging a bag of made-in-China stuff home after putting so much time and energy into everything I've worn for the past few years. Has anyone else dealt with this after the occasional clothing purchase?

In other news, I managed to make a few presents this month despite the staggeringly insane social calender of December. For a Secret Santa exchange among my circle of friends, I immediately landed on the idea of a luxury sleep set for my friend Eve. She travels frequently for her job and is also going through a bit of a 90's phase, so naturally I made her a burgundy crushed velvet travel pillow and fox eye mask.

This is a solid gold gift idea for your frequent flier friends. She loved it. I traced the shape of my own travel pillow, and bought a few cheap ones from the dollarstore to stuff it with (naturally too small and understuffed to actually be of any use), along with some dried lavender. I added a few small tabs with snaps so she could attach it to her bag or secure it around her neck. It was a bit of a slapstick adventure getting all those tiny styrofoam balls in the pillowcase, however. If there was a secret camera around I'm sure I would be a viral Youtube video right now ("Shit. It's like slippery sticky snow. Why is it in my hair? It's coating my hands. WHY WONT IT WIPE OFF? Aahhhh! It keeps puffing out of this hole like an angry white volcano! NO CATS! GET DOWN!! IT LOOKS LIKE SCARFACE'S COKE STASH EXPLODED IN HERE!!! WAIT! CATS! STOP! It is not catnip! WHY ARE YOU ROLLING IN IT? Jules, you look like Scarface sneezed on you!" *Frantic running, washing, vacumming etc*)

As for the mask, I followed this tutorial. I lined the inside with a heavier weight cotton sateen so it wouldn't stretch out too much and hand sewed on felt ears and eyelids. This is a super cute idea for a last minute gift! By Hand London also has this kitty cat tutorial.

For my step and sister-in-law, I made these foldover clutches.

The herringbone was a heavyweight upholstery. I mixed it with a heavy black cotton, lined it with a luxurious aqua coat lining and used some vintage metal zippers from my stash. I also used magnetic snap closures for the first time, which are AWESOME. I checked out a few tutorials but this one was the most helpful. Again, super easy and fast to whip out and a great use of scraps. Next time I make these I'd like to add some zipper tassles made from leather.

Additionally, I made a dozen all natural deodorants using this recipe as stocking stuffers. I picked up the containers at a DIY beauty product place (I love Montreal) and did it in less than an hour. My step-mom is recovering from breast cancer so I thought it might be good to load her and all the other women in my family up with some aluminum free deodorant. This stuff works better than ANYTHING else, and is basically just cornstarch, baking soda, coconut oil and essential oils. Pretty amazing stuff.

Blame the early sunsets and insanely busy month for a lack of great photos. Sorry guys.

Finally, I'm almost done knitting the softest scarf ever for my fella out of baby alpaca. I unripped the damn thing about 5 times before I stumbled on a rib pattern I think he'll like. I love knitting for people you care about. It's gotta be good protective juju to wear something made with love around your neck....

Headed back home to Montreal after a week in the old hometown. Super excited about all my plans for 2014. I hope you all had a wonderful holiday filled with love and calories and are just as excited about stretch pants as I am right now. So many xo's for the new year my friends!

Name the Dress Form Contest Winner!

Well it took the judges and I a bit longer than expected to deliberate! We loved the many names that you clever readers came up with but only one could win. The choices were so good that even the judges couldn't land on the same one! In the end I took the top 6, tossed them in a bowl and picked one at random. So, the new girl has a name! Meet Lusty Lulu!
Which means that our gift certificate winner is Emily! Emily also happens to write a great vintage-style blog, well worth checking out!
(Emily, I'll shoot you an email to work out the details.)

A special thanks goes to our guest judges: Brittany of Va-Voom Vintage Blog, Tilly of Tilly and the Buttons and my best friend, Becky!

In other news, a few days ago I finished my last final for the classes I was taking at my local community college. Boy, was it a relief! I loved the classes, my professor was brilliant, and my classmates were hilarious (ever seen the show Community? Spot on.) but I was exhausted from too much work, puppy, super-secret Christmas sewing (he doesn't even know I've been sewing anything!) and homework.

I especially loved my Fashion Illustration course. I went from basically drawing stick figures to a pretty decent grasp of the industry standard "10 head (tall) fashion figure".
For my final project I drew illustrations of my corset and long line bra from the Ohhh La La Pin-up Sew-Along and while they're not perfect, I had so much fun creating them in Photoshop!

If you have some free time next month, try a class at your local community college and learn something new! It's a blast!
I'll share more of the super-secret sewing project after Christmas so I don't let any cats out of bags but right now, I'm off to walk a German Shepherd pup who is sick of chilling calmly in my studio all day.

Happy Holidays!

happy birthday ellesse!

we hope crispy bikinis girl and crispy bikinis girl model search 2012 model search winner ellesse tzinberg

a very happy birthday yesterday!

click here follow @ellesse_jordan on instagram and wish her a happy belated birthday ☺

New Retailer in Peru: WALTER SURF SHOP

Our Peruvian adventure was amazing! You can find more details in our COSTA ambassador surfblog: Surfragette

There is just one surfshop in Mancora: Walter Surf Shop. Part of the Marcora Surf Club. You can buy there second-hand boards and wetsuit with the chance that Walter will buy them again in the end of your trip for the half of the price. And guess what! You will find there COSTA bikinis too.
They have all sizes and colors!
Yes, Peruvian girls loved our designs and now you can find them there too.

 

Foto HOT: 9 Putri Indonesia yang Cantik dan Seksi Mengenakan Bikini

Zamrud News - Foto HOT: 9 Putri Indonesia yang Cantik dan Seksi Mengenakan Bikini. Setelah Alya Rohali sebagai Putri Indonesia 1996 diberangkatkan untuk mengikuti ajang Miss Universe di tahun yang sama, ia menuai protes karena mengenakan pakaian renang dalam salah satu rangkaian penilaian. Indonesia kemudian tak lagi mengirimkan wakilnya untuk mengikuti kontes bergengsi tingkat dunia itu.

Ajang pemilihan Putri Indonesia masih digelar setiap tahunnya sejak 2000an, namun baru pada 2005 Yayasan Putri Indonesia (YPI) memutuskan untuk kembali mengirim wakilnya ke kontes kecantikan dunia, Miss Universe. Hal ini tentu dengan konsekuensi, mereka yang dikirim harus mengikuti penilaian dengan pakaian renang. Berikut beberapa kontestan yang sempat mengikuti ajang Miss Universe dan mengenakan pakaian renang. Tak hanya Miss Universe, beberapa waktu lalu peserta pemilihan Miss Earth 2012 dari Indonesia juga menuai protes karena berbikini. Siapa saja mereka, dan seperti apa baju renang yang dipakai? Mari simak halaman berikut...



1. Artika Sari Devi





Keberangkatan Putri Indonesia 2004 ke ajang Miss Universe 2005 ini diiringi protes yang sama seperti yang terjadi pada tahun 1996. Namun pada kenyataannya, wanita ini benar-benar menjaga nama baik Indonesia dengan sikap dan perilakunya selama mengikuti ajang itu. Bahkan saat ia harus menjalani penilaian dengan busana renang, ia mengenakan one piece dan membawa selendang.



2. Nadine Chandrawinata





Tahun selanjutnya, Nadine Chandrawinata mengalami hal yang sama dengan seniornya. Namun keberangkatannya yang menuai kontroversi pun berbuah manis. Ia menjadi runner up untuk Miss Congeniality dan Best National Costume Miss Universe 2006. Pada kesempatan penilaian dengan busana renang, ia mengenakan one piece dan membawa selendang seperti yang dilakukan Artika tahun sebelumnya.



3. Agni Pratistha





Puteri Indonesia 2006 ini dikirim untuk mewakili Indonesia dalam ajang Miss Universe 2007. Ia sempat memenangkan Best National Costumes dalam ajang tersebut, sebelum akhirnya dibatalkan karena Miss Malaysia juga mengenakan kostum senada yang juga sama-sama dari suku Dayak. Untuk penilaian dalam pakaian renang, Agni memilih mengenakan one piece seperti para seniornya.



4. Putri Raemawasti





Wakil dari Indonesia untuk Miss Universe 2008 ini membuat gebrakan baru dengan keberaniannya mengenakan busana renang two piece di atas panggung internasional itu. Berita tentang two piece yang dipakainya tidak terlalu bergaung. Dan meski tak menorehkan prestasi apapun dalam ajang tersebut, namun perjuangan Putri Indonesia 2007 ini patut dihargai.



5. Zivanna Letisha





Sejak keberanian Putri Raemawasti memakai bikini tahun sebelumnya, Putri Indonesia 2008 yang dikirim untuk ajang Miss Universe 2009 ini pun mengikuti seniornya itu. Dengan busana renang two piece, ia tampil di atas panggung internasional. Sayangnya, ia tak berhasil lolos, atau bahkan masuk Top 15. Meski demikian, perjuangan kerasnya patut mendapat apresiasi.



6. Qory Sandioriva





Putri Indonesia 2009 ini didaulat untuk berangkat mengikuti ajang bergengsi Miss Universe 2010. Beda dengan dua senior di atasnya, Qory mengenakan busana renang one piece dengan alasan karena ia masih memegang teguh budaya timur. Beberapa juga menduga bahwa Qory mengenakan swimsuit one piece karena tubuhnya memang lebih gemuk dibanding kontestan lainnya.



7. Nadine Alexandra Dewi Ames





Tahun selanjutnya, terpilihlah Nadine Ames sebagai wakil Indonesia untuk Miss Universe 2011. Berbeda dengan para seniornya, wanita ini memilih mengenakan dua pakaian renang yang berbeda untuk sesi pemotretan dan catwalk Miss Universe. One piece untuk sesi pemotretan, dan two piece ia pakai di atas panggung. Sayangnya ia tak masuk dalam jajaran semifinalis.



8. Chelsy Liven





Kontes Kecantikan Miss Earth 2012, Selasa (6/11) lalu, menggelar agenda presentasi media untuk memperkenalkan 90 kontestan berparas ayu kepada media. Kantor berita Reuters melaporkan, para kontestan berpose dengan bikini di sebuah hotel di Taguig, Metro Manila. Salah satu kontestan dari Indonesia, Chelsy Liven pun tampil dengan two piece dan menuai kontroversi.



9. Maria Selena Nurcahya





Sebagai Puteri Indonesia 2011, Maria Selena dipastikan mewakili Indonesia pada ajang Miss Universe 2012. Masih seperti tahun-tahun sebelumnya, salah satu bagian dari kontes ratu sejagat yang kerap menuai kontroversi yaitu sesi penilaian mengenakan busana renang. Kita lihat saja, swimsuit model apa yang akan dikenakan wanita ini di Las Vegas, Nevada, USA, 19 Desember nanti. (kpl/dew)



1. Whulandary Herman





Wakil dari Sumatra Barat ini memenangkan kontes Putri Indonesia tahun 2013, setelah tahun 2012 kontes ini tidak diadakan. Sebagai Putri Indonesia, Whulandary juga akan tampil di Miss Universe pada tahun 2013 yang akan dilangsungkan dalam beberapa bulan ke depan. Patut ditunggu, akankah Whulandary berhasil melampaui prestasi Artika Sari Devi dan menembus lebih dari babak 15 besar.

Dari segi kecantikan, Whulandary Herman memang sangat jelita. Wajahnya sangat khas Indonesia, dan ia juga sudah berpengalaman di dunia modeling setelah memenangkan kontes International Model of the Year 2009. Semoga saja Whulandary bisa membawa nama baik Indonesia di ajang Miss Universe.

DRAPING: THE COMPLETE COURSE (A BOOK REVIEW)

Christmas is juuuuust around the corner and I suspect this would be a very welcome gift to find under the tree this year for any sewing nerd.

It was basically like Christmas came early when Laurence King sent over a copy for me to review.  It was exactly like that scene from A Christmas Story when Ralph unwraps the Red Ryder BB Gun, but no one shot their eye out.

My eyes did FALL out of my head, but it was because of the staggering and welcome amount of information in this tome (and it is a tome - very satisfyingly thick and weighty, and has the heft of a text book, something a book nerd like myself finds extremely satisfying). This book explains the art of draping in tremendous detail, and presented a topic I viewed with some level of mysticism ("Draping? That's when you prey to Shiva, do a rain dance and call on the ancient spirits to make clothes, right?") with clarity and approachability.

Maybe my confusion about what draping entails can be blamed on Project Runway. Whenever a contestant was described as a "draper", it generally meant they were ripping off Madame Grès with fluid, jersey dresses that they made by wrapping and hand sewing on the spot. While this more free-form type of clothing design is certainly part of draping, I had no idea that you could (quite easily) design traditional patterns using draping techniques.

Traditional flat pattern making is much more technical and mathy, and I think requires a bit of education and practice to wrap your mind around. I come from a technical design background so teaching myself this method when I released the Bombshell wasn't a crazy jump in logic, but the techniques outlined in this Draping book would have made the process infinitely more intuitive and fun. It is inherently a more creative approach to pattern making since you are manipulating the fabric on a dress form in real time. You can visualize the design since it is right in front of you, and don't have to do the mental gymnastics to visualize a 2D pattern in 3D (or make numerous muslins, since the first step is actually making the muslin).

The book explains the basics of draping fundamentals (grain lines, tucks, dart placement etc) and provides a number of projects where those techniques are applied to different garments in a step by step, beautifully photographed way you could easily follow along with.

What's kind of fun about this book is the projects they use to teach the techniques. It's a mix of beautiful designer pieces (who hasn't wanted to knock off things they've seen on the runway?!) along with iconic ensembles from films and the red carpet.

The breadth of draping projects is impressive - dresses, gowns, skirts, blouses, jackets. Obviously, you would need a dressform to apply the techniques, but I've never been more inspired to save up and finally buy  a real dressmaking dummy instead of the cheap plastic collapsible model I have now.

Some of the projects are topical and may not age well, like Rihanna's crazy tuxedo. The choice to include Gwyenth Paltrows' pink Oscar dress made me laugh, since it is kind of famous for fitting her really poorly:

My favourite project is a Jean Harlow 30's gown. No surprise really - the 30's is my all time fantasy period for evening wear and nothing makes my heart beat faster than a bias cut slinky gown.

MY PRECIOUSSSSSSSSSS.....

Finally, there is a chapter on more improvisiational draping, which is what we generally think of when we think of draping in the first place. This may be a good place to start having fun with these methods:

I couldn't be more excited to try out some of these ideas, particularly as I find myself more inspired to design my own makes from scratch as my sewing skills grow and improve. It feels liberating to be handed a key to limitless clothing possibilities, and especially nice that the key is a book you can buy on Amazon.

This would be a great last minute gift idea! It is definitely the prize of my sewing library at the moment.