gadohotz

Kamis, 28 November 2013

RALPH PINK PATTERNS + GIVEAWAY *CLOSED*

I stumbled on Ralph Pink Patterns a few years ago. Back then, the site offered a mix of corset and high fashion patterns, along with a few free blocks (which are still available under "Free Patterns" here). I was curious about the company and pinned a few things, but you know how it is. There are always a hundred projects on the go, and my "To Sew" board on Pinterest is getting so bloated I'm scared to even look at it anymore.

Then Kazz, Our Lady of Print and Graphic Madcap Magic, made a Ralph Pink jumpsuit. AND IT WAS GOOD. Very, very good. When I went and checked out Ralph's offerings again, my brain exploded. The site was greatly expanded and is now chock full of beautiful, modern patterns. There are not very many indie companies focusing on trendy, edgy designs, but we can add another major contender to the list. Ralph does not f*ck around.


HOW MUCH DO I WANT TO SWADDLE MYSELF IN THAT COCOON COAT AND EMERGE A BEAUTIFUL BUTTERFLY? 

Up to this point I haven't seen many Ralph Pink makes in the sewing blog world, despite the fact that the instructions are beautifully illustrated and seem to be well explained (you can preview the cutting layout and instructions for each pattern which is awesome). Curiosity got the better of me so I contacted him and asked if he would answer a few questions for all of us sewing nerds. He graciously accepted, and seems utterly lovely, I must say.




Can you tell us a little bit about your education and industry history? Do you still have a fashion line?

I started my “Fashion Career” when I was about 7 years old. I can remember sitting with my mum, cutting out patterns from Vogue on the floor of our living room in Scotland. There was a lot of distance between me and our neighbours, so on wet days there wasn’t much to do. Looking back I never would have guessed it would turn into my career choice. 

After many years of side line projects and experimenting with construction I enrolled at Middlesex University and spent three years having free reign to experiment with my style and find myself as a designer. I love that university; they really looked after me and nurtured my creative energy. I was quite stubborn in my design and development so I got shouted at a lot too, which was exactly what I needed - London can be a huge distraction at that age!  I was never really interested in commercial fashion - it was all about couture for me, so I finally knuckled down and created some really interesting pieces. I'm still not really sure how I managed to make some of those items! 

After my showcase at Graduate fashion week I went to a few interviews with Alexander McQueen and Gucci, but decided to go where the money’s at, with commercial high street fashion. I worked for a supplier building fashion prints for various high street retailers for seven years. I learned pretty much all my Adobe skills in that time and thrived wonderfully. I still do freelance for them including other clients specializing in print design, illustration, graphic design, corset and web design. Everything I learned in those seven years was in my own time and using tutorials on the internet. It’s a very tough process but extremely rewarding. You can teach yourself anything as long as you’re patient and break it down into steps. Each question answered creates yet another unanswered question. 

Once I had established what I wanted to achieve I left and started my own couture range for London Fashion Week.

What inspired you to start releasing patterns online?


I left my job in 2010 and started a couture collection of my own for London Fashion week. I started a video blog to document the process and got fantastic feedback due to all the free content on the website. The site still exists and has a huge following, it’s a bit messy and there’s so much content it would take me months to reorganize and clean it up, but it serves its purpose! I started making video tutorials focusing on corsetry construction, digital pattern cutting, print design and so much more! As I experimented and developed my skills at digital pattern cutting, I started to post free patterns to get yet more followers... It started to become very clear that people were really excited about the patterns and so my attention drifted from my collection and on to the website, which was a real shame... I set up the new site in July 2012 and we’ve been doing fantastically ever since! The company is growing every day and we’re starting to collect freelancers and interns!

I remember finding your site a few years ago, but since then you've greatly expanded your offerings. You have a new section that is much more edgy and trend conscious than many commercial patterns. Can you tell us more about this "Catwalk Trend" line?

Yes of course...The trend/catwalk collection was originally aimed to bulk out the site with easier patterns that were simple to grade, however it is turning into a sector that is really quite exciting. Every day we get requests for more exciting trend-led garments, so I believe this section will become our staple over the next few years. We plan to add a great deal more patterns, that not only test construction skills, but also appeal to the younger more trend-aware audience. I don't believe there are many, if any, sites out there that cater to the more trendy side of fashion. We intend to get out and start photographing hipsters and trend setters on the street in London to create a larger collection of exciting and unusual patterns!

You also offer some beautiful couture patterns that offer an interesting challenge to the more experienced sewist. Can we expect more designs like this in the future? 


Yes absolutely! This is something we are working on right at this very moment! I have just launched a competition for all our customers, to come up with a collection of inspiration or mood boards, that we will use as the starting point for our next couture collection - we aim to do this at least three times a year. We are hoping it will really excite people and get their creative juices flowing.  It’s also exciting for us to see what people are inspired by, helping us to further cater to our customers. If you’d like to see more about our competition and how you can get involved please click here


What inspires you? Do you have any designers or time periods that are particularly meaningful?

Hmm... I absolutely adore corsets, luxury garments and the female form! I love statuesque iconic women with a hint of the femme fatale - It’s what drives me - any excuse to make an outfit that emphasizes the female form! 

My inspiration changes monthly depending on what I'm working on. But right now it’s all about Venice, masquerade, burlesque, Eyes Wide Shut, and excessive amounts of beading! I do have a real love of the 1940’s and 50’s genre. I adore women and simply want to emphasize their natural beauty... as cheesy as that sounds!  


Right now I'm working on a complete burlesque costume with headdress, ostrich feather fan, bustles, corset and accessories for a close friend… it is Christmas after all!

Do you sew for yourself? Can we look forward to any Ralph Pink for men patterns?

Ha ha ha... unfortunately not! At this point in time I'm a complete mess, my clothes are so out of date and moth eaten... I just don't have the time to buy new clothes let alone construct for myself. I would love to, but Menswear just doesn’t inspire me as much as women’s wear right now! I’ve always been a women’s wear designer.  


We are looking into getting Menswear on the site in the future and would love to collaborate with an influential Menswear designer, but right now we have to focus our energy and solidify our product. 


(ed. note: there are a few free men's blocks available on Ralph's old sit here).
 

What else can we look forward to from Ralph Pink Patterns in the future?

I’m glad you asked! It’s soon to be the start of a new year and I'm so excited about all the projects we have lined up! I am now outsourcing a great deal of the work, so I have time to develop the website blog and add new features. 

VIDEO BLOG: When I finish this interview I'm off to start our video blog, which will detail everything that goes on behind the scenes! Meetings, expeditions, corset toiling, pattern cutting our range, high street finds and so much more. It gives the public a real insight into who we are, what we want to achieve, and where we’re going! Which I think is very important considering we are still quite new.


NEWSLETTER: We have finally created a newsletter, to keep all our fans up to date! We release it monthly and it details everything that has been happening over the past month all in one easy to read bite size page. You can view it and subscribe here.


PINTEREST: We have set up a Pinterest account, with a variety of boards where we collate all our inspiration for our future patterns. There’s inspiration for future corsets, couture and a new feature for trend. We invite everyone to get involved by tagging, posting and commenting on content. If you want a pattern let us know, we’ll put it forward for consideration!  


FACEBOOK: We have had a Facebook page for some time now, but recently we have really stepped up the amount of content posted. So it’s a great way of stay updated on a daily basis.

PATTERNS: We will be adding to all of our product categories every three months, with various cool competitions and free goodies and will be blogging every step of the way.
6-8 couture patterns
3-4 trend led patterns
2-3 corset patterns

TUTORIALS: Our sister site ralphpink.com featured a large archive of tutorials and we aim to update this on our new site. We will be creating yet more and refining the old ones to bring you fantastic content you can all get stuck into. Tutorials such as: corsetry construction, fashion illustration, CAD drawing, print design, headdress construction and much more! We aim to dramatically increase our content over the next year and we simply can’t wait to get started! 


________________________________________________________________________________________

WOW! Isn't he awesome? I'm so inspired by his energy and output. The tutorial section above is pretty cool and I love all the free content. I'm super excited to see what he comes up with next. I'm hoping that as the company grows we will get to see sample garments along with the beautiful illustrations. It's always nice to see physical samples on a real live human.

Now for the fun part! Ralph has generously offered 3 PDF patterns to 3 of you. If you would like a chance to win one, go check out the pattern offering here, like him on Facebook or follow him on Twitter and leave me a comment below (with a contact email) telling me what you would like to make. I will randomly choose 3 winners by December 5th, 2013.

Also, please let me know if you have made any Ralph Pinks! I'm dying to see some in the flesh!

** GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED **






 


Rabu, 27 November 2013

Modes et Travaux... What was in style for November 1937?

Happy holiday week, my dear readers! I have a whole week off from classes thanks to Thanksgiving break (for which I am eternally grateful) and I'm using that time to catch up on Mrs. Depew Vintage projects and  a few blog posts!

Modes et Travaux no. 430 from November, 1937.

Today for you I have something that just made me swoon. A glimpse of Modes et Travaux from November of 1937. (Pronounced "mode eh travoh" for my English speaking friends).

So what was so in demand for exactly 76 years ago? Yards and yards of lace!

"Lace for small or big evenings!"
Can you believe that there were sewing patterns on offer at the time? One could simply pop down to the corner newsstand, pick up a gorgeous fashion magazine, and then for a mere 13 frances, one could order the perfect evening gown pattern to make in time for a Chirstmas gala. If that wasn't easy enough, you could even order the lace or fabric featured from the same magazine!


Wouldn't it be great if Vogue offered a similar service?!

These gorgeous dresses made my brain go all sorts of happy places which led me to a point where Madeleine Vionnet tickled my memory. After a bit of searching, I remembered where I had seen it:

Madeleine Vionnet gown - Image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

I often browse the Metropolitan Museum of Art's website for goodies like this.

Madeleine Vionnet gown - Image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

This gown is from 1939 but it first perfectly with the fashion spread above, don't you think?
Anyways, I'm off to put a few pies in the oven in anticipation of having my oven occupied tomorrow.

Have a happy week!





Kamis, 21 November 2013

New Paper Patterns Sitting on my Shelf of Awesome.

Boy have I been busy, my dear readers! Between two college classes (why, oh why did I think two at once would be a good idea?) running Mrs. Depew Vintage, and le pup needing full time watching, I've been seriously overwhelmed! I dropped everything yesterday to go get a massage and today, I'm sore but also a bit recharged again. When I haven't been chasing after Butters (le pup has been renamed... it's a long story), doing homework, or taking care of the house (so much pet fur to stay on top of...) I have been busy folding patterns!

I thought that I was going to hate it but there's something so satisfying about breaking a large piece of paper down into exact fractions so that they fit perfectly in their little envelopes... over and over again... I'm such a sucker for repetitive work.

I have started with my most popular patterns, most often requested by those with no printer at home, and so without further ado, here they are!

Depew #1003 available at Mrs. Depew Vintage.
Depew #2013 available at Mrs. Depew Vintage.
Depew 2012 available at Mrs. Depew Vintage.

Currently they sit in a place of honor right under "Boobs" McGee, my 1950's bullet bra model.

My "Shelf of Awesome".

Next up in paper patterns will be the 1950's Style Bathing Suit pattern (Depew #1001) and the ever popular 1950's Style Beach Bustier (Depew #1018)... if I can ever find the time to finish them!

I was so excited about how reasonable printing costs were in comparison to what I paid in Norway! It means that I can offer reprints of my other paper patterns for lower prices. Huzzah!

This has been a big project and I'm so relieved to have it finished for the time being. But enough about me!
How about you? Have you been working on any of your own big projects lately?
And when you're finished, how do you usually reward yourself? With a massage? New clothes? Shoes? More fabric?

Happy sewing,


Rabu, 20 November 2013

A SEQUIN SHIFT FOR A MISSISSIPPI WEDDING

Why does no one tell you when you buy your first sewing machine, "Have fun. But don't even think about tackling sequins unless you have 6 whole seasons of Sex and the City to watch while you methodically remove sequins from your seam lines". Bernina, Viking, Singer, et al., I'm looking at you. Seriously. WE NEED TO BE WARNED.

I've made some pretty involved stuff in my few years of sewing, but nothing, NOTHING (not rolled chiffon hems, not bound buttonholes, not bra-making) compared to the labour that went into this sequin dress.

Get ready for a photo deluge. I sewed this fugging thing for a whole month and it doesn't count if I don't drown you in photos of the pretty, shiny albatross.



Before I explain why I am posing on the steps of a beached houseboat in Mississippi, why don't I tell you what went into this beautfiul chevron asshole.

I'm feeling listy. Let's see:

1. The original pattern (a 60's shift from Burdastyle's Sewing Vintage Modern) did not even remotely fit. There was MAJOR back gappage and it took 2 muslins, dozens of adjustments and the spontaneous purchase of Fit for Real People to make it work. I pinched out many inches from the back seam (and then eliminated it all together), shifted the shoulder seam forward, pinched off the front.... the works. The final product fits like a dream. In the process, I learned I need to make forward shoulder and/or high rounded back adjustments to my clothes. Damn office job (and damned inability to ever attend a yoga class) explains the gapping I get in almost everything I've sewn. It's only taken me 2 years to figure it out.

2. The pattern did not call for sleeves so I frankensteined some from another pattern. I was recently won over to the concept of zero ease in sleeve caps after reading this (especially because sequins, in a shocking turn of events, look like disco barf when eased). I removed the ease by measuring the armscythe and sleeve opening. The sleeve was 4 cm larger, so I folded the difference out and redrew my sleeve curve. There is a good tutorial for this here. I initially drafted a short sleeve but got nervous about the sequins rubbing up against each other under my armpit, so I drafted yet another sleeve, this one more of a little shoulder cap that would not create pit friction.

3. Once I had FINALLY got the fit down, I cut out my fabric. I should mention, this was an amazingly lucky score from a swap we had in Montreal. Monseratt, I was blessing and cursing you during the making of this dress, but the two yards of bronze chevron hell came in on the side of Good in the end. Rather than use weights and a rotary cutter as is my wont, I traced the pattern pieces on the wrong side and cut them out using heavy duty shears. I was trying my best to match the pattern on the sides as well.

4. Now I had 4 pattern pieces and about 20 feet of seam lines to prepare. Here is where this epic sewing tale took a gnarly Lord of the Rings "Thou Shall Not Pass" twist. You have to remove sequins from your seams. You will destroy your machine if you don't. So I spent hours, days, weeks, on my couch with a protective lap cover snipping each faux leather and tiny metallic sequin off with tiny scissors, and then pulled each one off the thread with tweezers. If you just seam rip them off you will loosen the entire thread and will be dropping sequins like bread crumbs. My house looked like Rupaul exploded in it for weeks. I kept finding sequins everywhere - my bed, my shoes, my tub. Thank god the cats can't complain.
Here you can see me naively trying to minimise the amount of sequins to remove. I used a sharpie to mark just under 5/8" of an inch and removed ever sequin the sharpie touched. When I sewed everything together, I would inevitably catch one here or there so those had to be removed as well. Once the seams were sewn, I went and removed everything along the seam allowance to remove bulk and allow me to serge them together. Hours, days, weeks, people.

5. Once the main pieces were assembled, I made a simple lining out of a stretch net (the sequined fabric had stretch as well). I sewed the neck opening down and then turned the lining in. The sleeves were lined and assembled separately. Attaching everything at the arm hole took a little McGyvering but I got it done. BUT. The lining was too lightweight and despite the understitching I had done at the neckline, kept flipping up. I had to hand sew the seam allowances to the net lining in order to get it to stay down. Not my best work. I was exhausted and my hands were sequin throbbing.


 6. Once I removed the sequins from the hem, I realised a simple folded hem wouldn't do. I made a hem facing out of a similarly weighted stretch fabric and then hand stitched it to the inside. This is maybe my new favourite hem finish - it looks so profesh and gives a nice weight to the bottom.

7. FINALLY, I spent a night filling in the gaps where I removed too many sequins. This was after 6 seasons of Sex in the City and into the second movie. Thank heavens I was visually distracted by the dress and didn't have to pay too much mind to the MONSTROSITY that is SATC 2 (Samantha in the souk with condoms, ugh). But I digress.





The reason I embarked on this sequin journey in the first place was the fact that one of my favourite girlfriends was marrying a good ol' Southern Boy in Clarksdale, Mississippi. I wanted something fancy but casual for their wedding. Little did I know when I arrived that I would be staying in one of the greatest accommodations ever.... The Shack Up Inn. It is a collection of old sharecropper shacks surrounding a cotton gin. The place is loaded with charm and history (which you may have seen a little of in my Instagram feed this week).

At the risk of making this post even longer than it is, I can summarise the three days I spent there thusly:

Drank moonshine and ate smoked deer and wild boar ham and got into an discussion with a Southern Baptist preacher about global warming. Ate a chili cheeseburger for breakfast and followed it up with a rack of ribs for lunch and fried catfish for dinner. Carted a bottle of whiskey the size of my torso into a juke joint and watched an 80 year old man sing the blues while passing the bottle around. Gave the bride a pair of homemade white lace wedding night knickers. Kissed the best man in a muddy field. Danced in an old cotton gin with a mix of hipsters and extras from Duck Dynasty. Rode in a pickup, got very little sleep, drank more beer than I ever have in my life and learned to say y'all. Had the best time ever. Y'all.

The south is tremendously underrated.





Also, I dyed my tips with red Manic Panic this week.

Back to the real world, where sequins are for special occasions and the morning doesn't start with cracking a cold one. xoxo

All photos by the inimitable Alanna Whittington-Barnes.

fourth times a charm for dianna dahlgren


check out four-time miss supercross dianna dahlgren


dianna is rockin custom monster energy x crispy bikinis pieces
designed and handmade by the ladies of crispybikinis {sue and cristina}




Minggu, 10 November 2013

aint nothin but a prism party

just a dash-of-flash with pearly brights and iridescent treatments
like these shimmery customers creations and crispy bikinis favorites
▽△

cb '808' top in Runway Pink X 'AXL' bottom in Sugar Skulls Print - both pieces with Teal ties + straps
click here to design your own '808' top
click here to design your own 'AXL' bottom

cb 'DOUBLE DARE' suit in Runway Pink with Gold Rings
click here to design your own 'DOUBLE DARE' top
click here to design your own 'DOUBLE DARE' bottom

cb 'BEETLEJUICE' suit in Yellow Peacock Print and Runway Pink with Gold Rings
click here to design your own 'BEETLEJUICE' top
click here to design your own 'BEETLEJUICE' bottom

cb 'BEETLEJUICE' top in Leaf Print and Reversible in Runway Pink
click here to design your own 'BEETLEJUICE' top

cb 'COASTAL BANDEAU' top X 'A MILLIE' bottom both pieces in Emerald with Gold Ties and Chain
click here to design your own 'COASTAL BANDEAU' top
click here to design your own 'A MILLIE' bottom

cb 'AXL' top X 'BOUDOIR' bottom reversible in Emerald - both pieces in Coral
click here to design your own 'AXL' top
click here to design your own 'BOUDOIR' bottom

cb 'KINGSLEIGH' top in Onyx Black with ties in Emerald
click here to design your own 'KINGSLEIGH' top

cb 'REIGN' bandeau top X 'GEM' Bottom in Glow Pink and reversible in Emerald
click here to design your own 'REIGN' top
click here to design your own 'GEM' bottom

cb 'MANHATTAN' bandeau top X 'CHERIE' bottom in Glow Pink and reversible in '13 Natural Python
click here to design your own 'MANHATTAN' top
click here to design your own 'CHERIE' bottom

cb 'COASTAL' top in Leopard Print with Glow Pink ties X 'DELTA' bottom in glow pink
*specially added Leopard Print bow
click here to design your own 'COASTAL' top
click here to design your own 'DELTA' bottom

cb 'KINGSLEIGH' suit in Glow Pink with Hot Pink ties and ribbon
click here to design your own 'KINGSLEIGH' top
click here to design your own 'KINGSLEIGH' bottom

cb 'KINGSLIEGH' top in Camouflage X 'COASTAL' bottom in Glow Pink with Camouflage ties
click here to design your own 'KINGSLEIGH' top
click here to design your own 'COASTAL' bottom

cb 'RHUM' top in Camouflage and Glow Pink X 'GEM' bottom in Glow Pink
click here to design your own 'RHUM' top
click here to design your own 'GEM' bottom

cb 'PARADISE' suit in Glow Pink and reversible in Camouflage
click here to design your own 'PARADISE' top
click here to design your own 'PARADISE' bottom

cb 'COASTAL' suit in Camouflage and reversible in Glow Pink
click here to design your own 'COASTAL' top
click here to design your own 'COASTAL' bottom


Rabu, 06 November 2013

repost contest! do it now ▸▸

all you have to do is...

1. repost this photo on your instagram
2. make sure you follow + mention @crispybikinis
3. hashtag #cblovelacesale

and you will receive one crispybikinis.com u.s. free shipping code!
pass it on! please share with your family and friends


*free standard shipping within the u.s.


Minggu, 03 November 2013

AUTUMN IN CREAM

Today we turn the clock back, and "the man" tricks us into being happy with an extra hour of sleep in order to fool us into being satisfied with the fact that the sun will now set in Montreal at around 4:30 this afternoon. Aka, time to bust out the roast chicken recipes and settle in for a long season of sweaters and binge Netflixing. Right now I'm bundled up on on my balcony soaking in some sun, and trying not to think about it.

I've been slaving away on my sequin chevron dress, spending hours methodically removing sequins from all my seam lines. The wedding I am wearing it to is in 2 weeks time. So happy I started it early or there would be no way it would be ready in time. If it's not fabulous, expect tears.

I've made a few things since I got back from New York, and first on the list was a cream midi skirt inspired by this image on Pinterest. I've never subscribed to the no-white after Labour day policy - there is something so refreshing to me about a flash of white against the changing autumn leaves.





I picked up this stable cream knit for around $5 a yard, and deliberated about how full to make the skirt. I was worried a true circle skirt would be "too" full and went with a vintage pattern I had in my stash. I think it's a 1/4 circle skirt but I'm still not sure about the terminology. The pattern was quite small so I used it as a guideline and drafted a wide waist band and changed the zipper to a side placement. Unfortunately the waist is at least an inch and a half too big. The last few skirts I've made were a little too lacking in the ease department and I overcompensated. It can really only be worn with a cinched belt and it doesn't lie flat. I would probably take it in but the cheapness of the fabric is showing itself - it's already started pilling after a few wears. I doubt this skirt will be in rotation for too much longer unfortunately, but I hope to make a similar one in the spring out of a more lightweight material.

I'm also wearing my first t-shirt! I did a ruboff of my favourite T, and I've been wearing it non stop. It's SO hard to find the right one and now I can knock off as many as I like. I bought the jersey in SF (it's a slightly burned out striped knit) but it is showing it's quality as well as it's pilled quite a bit. I'm wondering if there is some method to test for this before buying fabric...



I don't take go on photo taking field trips too often but had fun walking around my neighbourhood looking for a leafy spot. I would love to use this playground again but the dropping temperatures will probably put the kibosh on any sleeveless posing for the foreseeable future.

To be honest, I'm getting a bit of the fall blues. The winters here are so harsh and long, it is a struggle to face the impending 5-6 months of housebound hibernation with any degree of cheer. I've been planning lots of dinners with friends (tonight I am planning on making this recipe for some loved ones, a dish I ate in San Francisco in the spring and cannot stop thinking about).

Additionally, I've decided to start a 30 day meditation challenge. Like most thinky, slightly neurotic types, I have a propensity to over-analyse and over-process and get stuck in negative mental patterns which don't accomplish anything other than anxiety. I've been hearing so many great thing about meditation as a remedy to this behaviour so I'll be trying to integrate 1 or 2 short sessions a day into my daily routine. I'm trying the Transcendental method to start (although there are many schools of thought on this) because I find repeated mantras  to be an excellent way of quieting your thoughts and refocusing your energy. TM is quite controversial because the courses are very expensive but I found a list of their mantras here. I'm often very sceptical of anything with a whiff of the new age, but so many surprising people I admire and respect are devoted meditation practitioners and claim it gives increased energy, creativity and inner calm (Seinfeld and David Lynch are devoted Transcendentalists). Has anyone else experimented with mediation? I remember my trip to San Diego last year when I was guided around by the sweetest, most thoughtful man. We went to go check out an architectural landmark and he left the group to go and meditate for a half hour by the ocean. His centred, peaceful energy totally made sense after that. Something to strive for.
 

Bikini Artis Indonesia Copyright © 2012 SNAPSHOOTZ -- Powered by Blogger